Oyster reefs and banks represent important habitats for hundreds of species in the North Sea and along the Wadden Sea, from mussels and crabs to sea anemones. For thousands of years, the banks have been a haven for sea life and a form of protection from predators that roam the seas. Their importance to Indigenous communities has been especially great as oysters were used as a main protein source in native seaside diets. Techniques employed by these communities remained sustainable, thus maintaining a healthy level of the species until the commercialization of the seafood industry in the 1940s and the decline in their numbers. Oyster generation is sustainable due to the filter-feeding ability of the bivalves to purify ocean water. These "living shorelines" are arguably the most sustainable form of seafood when harvested properly. 

Techniques used to harvest oysters have evolved from regenerative methods to extraction methods. The primary methods are dredging and tong harvesting, which scraps oysters off of the reefs and banks, damaging the structures and diminishing the existing wildlife that call these reefs home. To combat this destructive form of oyster harvesting and the larger issue of unsustainable fishing systems, organizations like Slow Fish (a subsection of Slow Food) have emerged to promote networks of fishermen, producers, cooks, and scientists who have a shared vision of "sustainable management of marine resources and who strive daily to strengthen the social relationships that are an indispensable basis for a healthy and environmentally–friendly production chain." From education to international events, the Slow Fish movement aims to improve the seafood industry.

Photo Courtesy of Barbara Geertsema

As members of the Slow Fish community, whose company is considered a Slow Food Presidium (a community that works to save native breeds of fish and seafood), Barbara and Jan are committed to the ethos of fair, clean seafood and the sustainable systems that it supports. Change-makers at heart, the couple have always strived to improve their environment, fishing being just one of the many causes they have committed to in their lifetimes. In his youth, Jan ran away from home to live among others his age who had the same desire to break away from a governmental and social system they found oppressive and enact social change in the 80s. Living among other squatters in Amsterdam, Jan and his friends turned to contemporary and neo-expressionist art to communicate their frustration with the intensities of the Cold War and its impact on the Dutch economy and geopolitical landscape. One such change-maker who ran with the group, Keith Haring, went on to paint hundreds of famous politically charged works that dealt with many big issues of the time. 

It was in this 80s punk subculture that Jan met Barbara, who had the same passion for change as he did. The two of them continued to fight the government and the war through new-wave music, art, and street protests, but over the years, Jan and Barbara started to feel like they were not making a real difference. It was only after meeting change-makers in the food system that they realized that there was an area where they could make an active difference. “We realized at that point that we were in a hole and that we were too focused on things we couldn’t even change, so we decided to pivot to an industry where we could make a difference with our individual actions,” Jan had explained. It was then that Jan and Barbara decided to start a fishing business centered around using sustainable and regenerative practices to change the food system from the ground up. Despite the grueling lifestyle and the steep learning curve, they knew how much of an impact they could make in Europe. What started with a small network of buyers grew to a full-service artisanal fishing and oyster business with a restaurant serving North Holland and providing seafood to restaurants all around Europe.

Different from many seafood and fishing businesses around the world, Wild Wad commits to sustainable practices from start to finish as they have control over the entire “sea to table” process. From catching the fish themselves and harvesting oysters on the banks to production in the restaurant and selling at local markets, the team can oversee each step, ensuring clean and fairly sourced products for their customers. To further promote sustainable fishing and oyster-gathering methods, Jan and Barbara have joined forces with environmental experts in various regional projects. They specialize in the prevention of overfishing through fish “tunnels” to help freshwater and saltwater fish remain in and travel to their healthiest environments in order to maintain populations. These traditional methods of fishing and harvesting are not only positively contributing to sustainable food systems but are reviving lost wisdom to teach new generations about their importance. Without generational teachers like Barbara and Jan, people lose touch with where their food comes from, an issue already taking place.

The challenges are many for a small business in the agriculture industry. In a world controlled by “Big Food” and “Big Pharma,” Wild Wad is an underdog doing its best to provide fair, sustainably caught seafood products and recover from the financial blows of the pandemic. Barbara explains, “We are survivors. No matter what has happened in our lives, we will survive, and this will be no different. Our community and family come together, and we press on. That’s just the way it works with the life we have chosen.”

I first met Barbara and Jan in their Slow Food community in September of 2022 while traveling through Europe. In Torino, Italy, I came across Terra Madre, the Slow Food Movement Festival, an event highlighting small-scale farmers, artisans, and producers involved in sustainable agriculture and dedicated to teaching the world. It was a magnificent display of incredible international products, from sun-kissed Italian tomatoes to 30-year-aged Japanese sake. Thousands of people attended, coming from every corner of the world to learn about the Slow Food movement and why their efforts are crucial to global food systems and the greater environment. When the week of learning, eating, and working with the Wild Wad team ended, I traveled back to France. Weeks later, I got the chance to journey to the Wadden Sea to fish and harvest oysters for a month with Barbara and Jan. From harvesting oysters in the muddy banks for hours on end to shucking those same oysters for customers to eat at the Amsterdam weekly markets, I got to witness every step in the “sea to table” process. The experience was a transformative one in both mind and spirit as I came to understand the critical importance of what the Wild Wad team does and the beauty of the legacy that they are creating in the food landscape. There is something so special about knowing precisely where your food comes from and the journey that it takes to make it to your table. Barbara and Jan gave me one of the greatest gifts of a lifetime in showing me the importance of what they do every day. Beyond even aquaculture, they are inspirations for believing that small actions can create change from the ground up.